I think the review emphasis varies from magazine to magazine.
We chose to spend a very hefty six-figure sum on the design and build of six listening/viewing rooms, as you can read here, just to ensure consistent results when auditioning products.
Other magazines use freelance reviewers who tend to review at home, while others place a lot of emphasis on lab-testing equipment, and have a close relationship with manufacturers of test equipment such as this.
I spend quite a bit of time in the WHFSV rooms, but I also tend to take equipment home when I am testing it for Gramophone, as I find 'living with it' helps no end in writing the longer reviews we run in that magazine.
I guess it's a case of different strokes for different folks, and indicative of the different emphasis of each magazine.
Consulting Editor, What Hi-Fi? Sound and Vision / whathifi.com
Audio Editor, Gramophone